Epoxy Grout Vs Cement Grout

Choosing between epoxy grout and cement grout comes down to one question: how hard will this joint have to work? Epoxy grout is the resin-based, stain-proof option built for wet and high-traffic areas, while cement grout — the traditional, more affordable choice — suits lighter everyday use. Below, we break down how each performs, what drives the price gap, and which one fits your bathroom, kitchen or living-room floor, plus which Gresbond grout to reach for either way.

Key Takeaways

• Epoxy grout is a resin-based joint filler — stronger, waterproof and stain-proof, but pricier and trickier to apply.

• Cement grout (often called cementitious grout) is the traditional, affordable option — easier to work with but more porous.

• Neither is universally "better" — the right choice depends on the room, the traffic, and your budget.

• For Indian bathrooms, kitchens and pool areas, epoxy usually pays for itself in fewer repairs and less staining over time.

Grouting: A Quick Refresher

Before comparing the two, it helps to be clear on what grout actually does. Grout is the material that fills the gaps between tiles — it locks the tiles in place, stops dust and water from getting underneath, and gives the floor or wall a finished look. It is not the same as the adhesive that sticks the tile down (that job belongs to a tile fixing chemical like Gresbond's VX-1 for vitrified tiles), and it is not the same as concrete either — concrete is a structural material, grout is a joint filler. Once you separate those three jobs — fixing, filling, and finishing — the epoxy-vs-cement question gets a lot simpler.

What Is Epoxy Grout?

Epoxy grout is made from epoxy resins mixed with a fine filler powder, rather than cement. The resin reacts and cures into an extremely dense, low-porosity joint — which is why epoxy grouting shows up again and again in searches for stain-proof, waterproof grout. Because there's almost nothing for water, oil or mould to soak into, epoxy joints hold their colour and stay hygienic for years with very little upkeep.

What it's good at:

• Handles stains, chemicals and standing water without discolouring

• Very strong bond, so joints resist cracking under foot traffic or vibration

• Non-porous surface discourages mould and bacterial growth

• Minimal sealing or resealing required after installation

What to plan for:

• Costs more per kg than cement-based grout

• Sets faster, so it needs an experienced applicator and quick, clean tooling

• Can pick up a slight tint from strong UV exposure over many years

• Less forgiving of substrate movement than cement grout in some situations

What Is Cement Grout (Cementitious Grout)?

Cement grout — also called cementitious grout — is the more familiar option: cement, water and often fine sand or polymer additives, mixed into a paste and pressed into the joints. It's what most Indian homes and older buildings have used for decades, and it's still a perfectly sound choice for the right job. A common point of confusion in searches is whether "grout is basically cement" — not quite. Standard cement grout is cement-based, but manufacturers add polymers and admixes (like Gresbond's KGA-01) specifically to reduce the porosity and cracking that plain cement mix would have on its own.

What it's good at:

• Lower material cost than epoxy, especially across a large floor area

• Familiar to most tile layers, so labour is easier to find and faster to complete

• Works well across a wide range of tile types and joint widths

• Blends naturally with classic tile and stone finishes

What to plan for:

• More porous, so it absorbs stains and moisture unless sealed

• Can shrink or hairline-crack as it cures, especially in wider joints

• Needs periodic resealing and cleaning to stay looking new

• Lower chemical resistance than epoxy in kitchens or commercial settings

Epoxy Grout vs Cement Grout: Side-by-Side Comparison

Is Polymer Grout a Third Option?

Not really — "polymer grout" usually refers to polymer-modified cement grout, which is standard cement grout with added polymers to improve flexibility and cut down on porosity. It sits between plain cement grout and epoxy on performance, and it's what you get when you use a cement grout together with an admix like KGA-01, rather than water alone. So the real decision still comes down to epoxy vs cement — polymer-modified cement grout is simply the stronger version of the cement route.

What Drives the Cost Difference?

Epoxy grout costs more per kilogram than cement grout, and that's the single biggest reason people search for a price comparison before deciding. The gap comes down to raw material (resin costs more than cement) and the skill needed to apply it cleanly before it sets. But the sticker price only tells half the story: cement grout typically needs sealing every year or two and occasional patch repairs in wet areas, while a well-laid epoxy joint can go years without attention. For a small bathroom, the total cost difference is often modest; for a large commercial kitchen or a swimming pool deck, epoxy's lower maintenance usually wins out over the product's lifetime. For current pricing, check with your nearest Gresbond dealer rather than relying on old listings.

Where Should You Use Each One?

Reach for epoxy grout in:

•     Kitchens and food-prep counters, where oil and turmeric stains are a real risk

•     Bathrooms, showers and swimming pool surrounds — anywhere water sits for long periods

•     Commercial kitchens, hospitals and malls, where hygiene and heavy foot traffic matter

•     Industrial or high-traffic flooring that needs a joint that won't crack or crumble

Cement grout still makes sense for:

•     Bedroom and living-room floors with light daily use

•     Exterior patios, driveways and walkways where the classic tile look matters

•     Budget-conscious residential projects, including most DIY tiling jobs

•     Guest bathrooms or low-traffic rooms that don't see heavy staining

So, Which One Is Better?

Neither wins outright — it depends on where the joint sits and how hard it will work. If the area gets wet often, sees stains, or needs to look new for years without maintenance, epoxy grout is worth the extra cost. If you're tiling a low-traffic room on a tighter budget and don't mind resealing occasionally, a good cement grout — ideally polymer-modified with an admix like KGA-01 — does the job well. Many contractors mix both across one project: epoxy in the kitchen and bathroom, cement grout everywhere else.

Gresbond's Grouting Range

Gresbond by Kajaria makes both routes, so you're not stuck choosing a brand along with the grout type:

• KE-100 — a premium stain-resistant epoxy grout for floors and walls, built for kitchens, bathrooms and high-traffic areas, with non-shrinking, efflorescence-free joints.

• Premium Unsanded Grout — a polymer-based cement grout for narrow joints (1–3 mm), suited to ceramic, vitrified, glass mosaic and natural stone, indoors and out.

• KGA-01 — a liquid grout admix you mix in place of water with any Kajaria grout, to cut porosity and block moisture from seeping behind the tile.

Not sure how much grout your job needs? Use the Tile Joint Filler & Grout Calculator, or try the Tile Joint Filler Visualizer to preview how a colour will look before you buy.

Ready to buy? Find your nearest stockist on the Where to Buy page.